Shoe sewing machine



Feb. 13, 1940. K, ENGEL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4. 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 z 7 M L w Q M 6 0 Y & W NW Feb. 13-; 1940. K. ENGEL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Feb. 13, 1940. K. ENGEL SHOE SEWING MACHINE 5 Sheets-Sheet s Filed June 4, 1937 Feb. 13, 1940. ENGEL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 4, 1937 5 sheets-sheet 4 Feb. 13, 1940. K..ENGEL SHOE SEWING MACHINE s sheets-sheet 5 Filed Julie 4:.v 1937 4 5 2 2 .1 awwwzfivF z M .m 6 r/ 2 ,0 ZJ. 6 5/ z. M 1 0\ k a 1 fl 29 00 m l 0 F m 2 Patented Feb. 13, 1940 PATENT OFFICE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Karl Engel, Swampscott, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application June 4, 1937, Serial No. 146,389 18 Claims. (Cl. 112-47) The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to a machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes.

In the pre-welt type of shoe, the welt is sewed 5 directly to the margin of the upper before the upper is lasted. The operation of lasting the welted upper has heretofore involved certain difficulties in obtaining the proper inturn of the upper adjacent the welt, particularly around the I toe portion of the shoe. The difficulty has arisen because of the relative stiffness which the attached welt imparts to the margin of the upper, such stiffness preventing the proper contraction or gathering of the upper along the edge of the l toe portion in the lasting operation, and consequently requiring increased stretching of the central portion of the upper to producea correctly shaped shoe.

The object of the present invention is to provide ashoe sewing machine arranged to attach a welt to an unlasted upper in a novel and improved manner whereby the shaping of the welted upper, and particularly the toe portion thereof, over the last may be carried out with less difficulty, and with more satisfactory results than heretofore.

' With this object in view, a' feature of the invention comprises the provision in a machine for sewing a welt to an unlasted upper of means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to besecured to the welt with the margin of the upper in gathered or puckered condition. By this puckering, the welted upper is given a natural tendency to turn inwardly along the puckered portion of the margin, and caused to assume to a certain extent its lasted shape. As a result, the time and effort required in lasting the shoe are substantially reduced, since less working and stretching of the upper are necessary to secure a satisfactory shape of toe.

The'invention is shown and described as embodied, for purposes of illustration only, in ,a shoe sewing machine having a presser foot which is actuated to clamp and unclamp the work during each stitch forming cycle, the work-clamping movement of the presser-foot being utilized through means hereinafter described to feed the upper with relation to the welt during the sew- 30 ing operation to pucker the upper and cause it to be securedvto the welt whilein such puckered condition. I

It is desirable that a substantial amount of puckering be imparted to the margin of the upper, consistent with a smooth and unwrinkled appearance of the completed shoe. To achieve this result with various shapes and sizes of uppers, and with leather of different characteristics, another feature of the invention comprises means for adjusting the amount of feeding movement 5 imparted to the upper with relation to the welt whereby the amount of puckering appropriate to the work being sewn may be obtained.

While it has been found advantageous to pucker the marr in of the upper around the toe por- ,tion during the operation of sewing the welt thereto, it is generally neither necessary nor desirable to pucker other portions of the upper. In order that the puckering may be imparted only to the desired portions of the upper, a fur-' ther feature of the invention comprises means under the control of the operator for rendering the upper puckering mechanism operative and inoperative without stopping the machine or otherwise interrupting the sewing operation.

Other features of the present invention consist of certain constructions, combinations, and arrangments-of parts, the advantages of which will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view in left side elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the preferred form of the invention, certain of the actuating mechanisms for the stitch forming and work feeding devices being indicated in dotted line; Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation, on a somewhat larger scale, of the head and base portions of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a detail perspective view of the portion of the machine ad- 5 jacent the sewing point, illustrating the stitch forming and work feeding devices, and showing the presser foot and puckering point in raised position; Figs. 4 to '1 are a series of views in front elevation of the portion of the machine shown in Fig.. 3, taken at different times in the stitch forming cycle of operations, the work being shown partly in section; Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but with the puckering lever locked in inoperative position, and with the work 5 indicated in outline; Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but illustrating a modified form of puckering device mounted on the presser foot ofthe machine; Fig. 10 is an enlarged detail view in front elevation of the portion of the machine il- 5( lustrated in Fig. 9, with the work in sewing position; Fig. 11 is a detail plan view, partly in section, of the presser foot and puckering lever,

,taken along the line lI-ll of Fig. 10; and Fig.

12 isa perspective view of the toe portion of an unlasted upper and attached welt as sewn by the machine embodying the preferred form of the invention.

The shoe sewing machine illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is generally known as the "Puritan" machine, and is well adapted for sewing a welt to an unlasted upper by reason of its high sewing speed. The stitch forming and work feeding devices of the machine comprise a straight hook needle 2, an awl 4, a needle threading looper 6, and a needle cast-off 8, these members being actuated in proper timed relation by connections from a cam shaft Ill to sew a chain stitch seam in the work.

The cam shaft I6 is located in the head portion I2 of the machine frame, and is provided with clutch mechanism for starting and stopping the machine comprising a driven member I4 secured to the shaft and a driving member I6 rotatable thereon. The driving member is rotated continuously by means of belt I8 from a motor, not shown, in the base of the bench or pedestal 20 upon which the machine is mounted. By

means of the usual treadle, not shown, acting through rod 22 and lever 26, the driving member I6 is moved axially to bring the cone clutch surfaces, indicated at 26 and 28, into engagement to start the machine. The machine is stopped by releasing the treadle, permitting spring 38 to rock lever 28 to disengage the clutch and also to apply a friction brake 32 to reducethe time required to bring the cam shaft to rest.

The needle 2 is clamped in the end of a needle bar 34, while the cast-off '8 is secured in a fitting 38 clamped to the end of the cast-off bar 36. The needle bar 34 and the cast off bar 38 are mounted to permit vertical sliding movement in an arm 46 secured to a rock shaft 42 pivotally mounted in the base-oi the machine on screw points 44. The needle is vertically reciprocated in the arm 40 by means of an eccentric 45 on the cam shaf t ID by connections comprising an eccentric strap 46 connected by rod 48 to an arm on rock shaft 60 in the base of the machine, the other end of the rock shaft having an arm 52 connected to the needle bar 34 by link 54. Thecast-ofl bar 38 is similarly actuated from eccentric 56 by connections comprising eccentric strap 58, rod 60,

' rock shaft 62, arm 64 and link 66.

The work is fed intermittently past the sewing point by movement of the needle 2 in a horizontal direction, the arm 46 being rocked in work-ad vancing direction while the needle is in the work by connections between the cam shaft I and the rock shaft 42 on which arm 40 is mounted, the retracting stroke of the arm 40 being made while the needle is withdrawn from the work. The rock shaft actuating mechanism comprises an eccentric 68 on the cam shaft III, a yoke 18cmbracing the eccentric, and a feed lever 12 secured at one end to the yoke and pivotally attached at the other end to an arm 14 secured to the rock shaft 42. By mechanism indicated generally at 16, and fully illustrated and described in U.'S. Patent No. 490,854, issued January 31. 1893, to Frank W. Merrick, the effective center about which the lever 12 is rocked by eccentric 68 may be raised or lowered by handle 18 to change the relative lengths of the arms of the feed lever 12 above and below such center, thereby varying the arc of rock of the needle supporting arm 48 and consequently the rate of feed imparted to the work.

The awl 4 is clamped in the lower end of an awl bar 60 mounted to permit vertical sliding moveof the needle I of the presser foot bar I 04.

'ment in the head'portlon of the machine. The

awl bar is reciprocated to cause the awl to pierce the work by means of crank disc 62 on the-cam shaft I8 and pitman 64.

The looper 6 for placing the thread in the ,hook is actuated to travel in a circular 'or elliptical path around the needle by mechanism similar to that illustrated and described in U. s. Patent No. 490,856, issuedJanuary a1. 1893, to Frank W. Merrick to "which reference should be madexjor a complete description. Briefly, the mechanism comprises a sleeve 86 provided with a depending arm 88 in which the looper 6 is mount 90 on the camshaft of the machine, an eccentric strap 92 surrounding the eccentric and pivotally secured at its lower end to the sleeve 86, and a rod 84 extending within the sleeve and pivotally mounted at its other end on center screws 86- in the head of the machine.

The needle thread on its way to the looper 6 is drawn through a wax pct 98 of conventional construction and arrangement, mounted on the head portion of the machine frame.

The work is clamped against the work support I88 during a portion of each stitch forming cycle by means of a presser foot I02 mounted on a I 88 arranged to slide vertically in the front portion of the head of the machine. A fiat spring I86 adjustably secured at one end to the frame of the machine and bearing at the to be fed by the needle by mechanism actuated from the cam shaft I8, and more fully illustrated and de- 18, 1899, to Frank W. I68 on the cam shaft H6 in lugs projecting from the head of the machine. An arm ill on the front end of the rock shaft II 4 is adapted, when rocked in an upward direction, to engage lug I26, causing clutching mechanism indicated presser foot bar I64.

The clutching mechanism I22 comprises a cylindrical nut I24 threaded to engage a rapidpitch screw thread formed in the upper portion The nut fits loosely inside a cylindrical bore in the block I26, of which the lug I is a part. The nut I24 is free to rotate withinthe block and the presser foot bar is therefore movable vertically relative to the same except when the arm I I8 is rocked to engage the lug I20 and tilt block I26, locking the nut against rotation in thebore and. therefore,

against movement relative to the presser foot bar.

The amount of rise of the presser foot may be adjusted by means of a sleeve I28 which surrounds the, threaded portion of the presser loot bar and is provided with an offset portion within which the block I26 is positioned. The sleeve is urged downwardly in the head of the machine by a fiat spring I38 mounted below the presser foot spring I06, the descent of the sleeve during the clamping movement of the presser foot being limited by nuts I32 threaded to the upper portion of the sleeve. With the nuts I32 at the top of the sleeve, maximum rise of the obtained due to the fact that arm I I8 engages lug I28 and commences to lift the presser foot early in the upward rocking movement of said ed, a convex-surface eccentric at I22 to grip and lift the tems in the slot when I adapted to engage arm, while with the nuts screwed down onto the sleeve, the presser foot lifts but sllghtly since the arm III does .not come into'contact with lug I20 until the arm has substantially completed its. upward movement. It is evident that with the mechanism described, for any given setting of the nuts I82 on sleeve I28 the presser foot is always raised the same distance above the work regardless of the thickness of such work, a desirable feature in connection with the upper puckering mechanism hereinafter described.

The presser foot is prevented from coming into contact with the work support when there is no workfi'n the machine by means of a block I84 clamped to the presser with a pin I38 projecting through a slot I38 in the frame of the machine. The block is so posifoot bar that pin I36botthe presser foot just clears tioned on the presser the work support.

'Io permit the work to be placed in and withdrawn from operative position in the machine, means are provided for lifting the presser foot comprising a treadle, not shown, which is connected by rod I40 to one end of a lever I42 pivotally mounted on the frame of the machine, the

other end of the lever being adapted to engage thev underside of the pin I86. 1 The presser foot I02, best shown in the detail views, comprises a work pressing portion or platen the outside of the shoe upper I46, and a welt guiding portion-cmprising a lip. I48 through which the welt I50 is drawn and by which the welt is supported adjacent the sewing point during the sewing operation.

The work support I00 is provided with a portion I52 having a curved surface, upon which the inside of the upper rests, such curvature preventing distortion of the upper during the sewing oppoint I64 to lift the upper eration, particularly when working around the toe and heel portions of the shoe, as illustrated in Figs. to 7. An edge gage I54 secured to the flat portion of the work support by screws I56 is provided for guiding the upper.

The mechanism for puckering the upper comprises a lever I58 pivotally mounted in an extension of the needle slot I60 on screw I62. The lever is provided at one end with a feed point I64 which is pressed upwardly against the inside of the upper I46 by means of spring I66 stretched between the other arm of the lever and a hook I68 on the work support arm.

When the presser foot is in work clamping position, the feed point is substantially flush with the surface of the work support, as indicated in Figs. 5 to 7. As the presser foot is raised, spring I66 rocks the puckering lever to cause the feed forming a broad elevation or fold I69, as illustrated in Fig. 4. Upon downward movement of the presser foot, the feed point is forced downwardly, rocking the puckering lever about its pivot and imparting to the upper a forward feeding movement, the upper sliding along the presser foot platen I44. Since the downward movement of the presser foot is timed to take place while the needle is through the work, the result of feeding the upper by the above mechanism is to gather or pucker that side or portion of the broad fold I69 of the upper lying between the feed point I64 and the needle 2 (see Fig. 4).

The upper is secured to the welt while in puckered condition by actuation of the sewing instrumentalities to sew a chain stitch seam. in the work, as illustrated in Figs. 5 to '7. In Fig. 5, the

foot bar I04 and provided from the work support,

presser foot has clamped the work while the needle is drawing theloop of thread into the work. Fig. 6 shows the needle at the bottom of its stroke and still in its forward position, with.

the awl 4 descending to pierce the welt and puckered upper. In Fig. '1, the needle supporting arm 40 has been rocked to retracted position to permit the needle to pass up through the hole made by the awl, and the looper is about to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, following which the pressure foot is raised and the puckering lever is actuated to form a fold or pucker in the upper, as shown in Fig. 4. The work is then fed and the presser-foot lowered, bringing the parts back to the position shown in Fig. 5.

The amount of puckering imparted to the upper may becontrolled by the operator through adjustment of a stop screw I by which the arc of rock of the puckering lever may be limited. The stop screw is threaded in an arm I12 mounted on the work support I00, and is provided with a check nut I14. In addition, adjustment of the rise of the presser foot by means of nuts I32 serves to change the rate of puckering, since the stroke of the puckering lever, except as limited by stop screw I10, depends on the rise of the presser foot. As has already been pointed out, the presser foot, for any given setting of nuts I32, lifts a uniform distance above the work, regardless of variations in thickness of the same. and hence the upper is gatheredthe same amount at each stroke of the presser foot.

It is generally desirable that the upper be puckered around the toe portion only of the shoe, and therefore means are provided for locking the puckering lever in inoperative position, these means comprising a lever I16 pivotally mounted on the work support I00 and adapted to be swung under the puckering lever to maintain the latter with the feed point I64 substantially flush with the surface of the work support, (see Fig. 8). The lever I16 may be readily actuated by the operator of the machine so that the puckering lever may berendered operative and inoperative without stopping the machine or otherwise interrupting the sewing operation.

The toe portion of an upper and welt sewn by the machine above described is illustrated in Fig. 12. The puckering of the upper I46 is observable around the toe, and likewise the inturn of the upper adjacent the welt I50, which results in the upper assuming its lasted shape. Since the parts illustrated were sewn with the upper on the same side as the needle, the chain portion of the seam is on the inside of the upper, while the line of single thread loops lies in the welt channel.

A modification of the invention is illustrated in Figs. 9 to 11, and is adapted to pucker theupper while sewing the parts with the welt beneath the upper and on the same side asthe needle, so that the chain portion of the seam is laid in the welt channel. In this form of the invention the puckering lever is mounted on the presser foot, while the welt guide comprises a portion of the work support.

The presser foot is provided with a work engaging platen I80 having an'elongated aperture through which the needle passes, the platen along one side of the needle slot being provided with iii) a guide pin I92 serving to maintain the spring in place The other end of the spring is seated on one of the lugs I94 by which the presser foot is clamped to the presser foot bar I 04.

The puckering lever is formed with a curved shoulder or boss I96 adapted to bear against the inside of the upper, as illustrated in Fig. 10, under the action of the spring I90. The downward movement of the lever is limited by a. lip I98 formed in the lever and adapted to engage the reenforcing rib I82 when the lever has reached ,a substantially horizontal position.

The short arm of the puckering lever I88 is provided with a portion 200 which is at an angle move the work-engaging portion 206 to one side and out of operative contact with the upper, when portions of the upper are to be sewn to the welt where puckering is not required. A lip 2l0 serves as a stop to permit the feed point to be returned quickly to operative position without stopping the machine, when the puckering operation is to be resumed.

The work support 2l2 is provided with a channel 2 through which the welt passes on its way to the sewing point. A strip 2I6 of thin resilient material such as spring steel covers a portion of the channel and serves as a support. for the upper opposite the prongs 206 of the feed point 202, so that the upper may be fed toward the sewing point independently of and without friction with the welt. The .upper is guided to cause the line of stitches to be the proper distance from the edge by means of the'usual edge gage 2l8 adjustably secured to the work support M2 by screws 220.

The operation of the above described modification is substantially similar to that of the prei erred embodiment of the invention, the descending movement of the presser foot causing the puckering lever I80 to rock'in a clockwise direc tion due to the fact that the boss I96 is maintained in the same horizontal plane by/ngagement with the inside of the upper. This clockwise rotation causes the prongs of the feed point,-

which are firmly engaging the upper, to rock from right to left, advancing the upper only toward the needle, which is through the workat'this stage in the operation, thereby gathering or puckering the upper between the feed point and the needle. The presserfoot, upon completing its downward movement, clamps the work with the upper in puckered condition while the awl pierces the work and the stitch is formed.

While the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a preferred form and in a modification thereof, and for use on a particular type of shoe sewing machine, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to such embodiments, or to use on such machineonly, but covers all forms and arrangements for puckering an upper during the attachment of a welt to an unlasted upper, except as limited by the appended claims.

Where, in the claims, reference is made to means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment this is not to be considered as limiting the invention to a construction in which the upper and welt are guided with their edges exafctly coinciding or flush, but also includes a construction in which the upper and welt are presented to the sewing point with their edges more or less offset, that is, with their edges in substantially parallel alignment but not in registration.

The nature and scope of the invention having thus been described, what is claimed is:

1. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges substantially in alignment, and stitch formingand work feeding devices including a presser foot, a hook needle, an awl, means for moving one of the latter two elements with the work in the line or feed, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be sewed to the welt in puckered condition.

2. A machine for use in the manufactureof pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges substantially in alignment, and stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, a presser foot, a work support, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt while the needle is through the work to pucker the upper, and for holding the pucker in the upper until the needle again enters the work, to cause the upper to be sewed to the welt in puckered condition.

3. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their alignment, and stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a. worksupport, a presser foot and means for actuating the presser foot to clamp and unclamp the work during. each sewing cycle, and means for'feeding the upper with relation to the welt to pucker the upper between successive penetrations of the work by the needle and holding the pucker until the needle again penetrates the work.

4. A machine. for use in the manufacture of pre-welt'shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, and stitch forming and work feeding devices including a hook needle, a presser foot, a work support, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to pucker the upper, said means including a edges substantially in feed point for engaging the upper and imparting feeding movement thereto.

5. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, and stitch forming and work feeding devices including a presser foot, a hook needle, means for moving the needle with the Work in the line of feed, and means for imparting a supplemental feed to the upper only during the sewing operation to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.

6. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial aligncluding; means for imparting a supplemental feed during the sewing operation to to the upper only to be secured to the welt in cause the upper puckered condition, trol of the operator for rendering inoperative the means for imparting the supplemental feed.

, '1. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a presser foot, a hook needle, an awl, means for moving one of the latter two elements with the work in the line of feed, and means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to pucker the upper, said means having provision for, adjustment to vary, the relative feeding movement of the upper.

8. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for. guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including means for feeding the upper with relation to the welt during the sewing operation to pucker the upper, and means controllable by the oper- 3 actuating the presser ator during the operation of the machine to render operative and inoperative the means for imparting said relative feeding movement to the upper. 4

9. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a presser foot, presser foot actuating mechanism, and means actuated by the presser foot for feeding the upper with relation to the welt to cause the upper to be sewed tothe welt in puckered condition.

10. A machine for use pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, a presser foot, devices for foot to cause it to clamp and torele'ase the work, and means 'including a lever provided with a feed point for engaging the upper and adapted to be rocked by the clamping movement of the presser foot and while the needle is through the work to feed the upper with relation to the welt and to cause the upper to be sewed to the welt in puckered condition.

11. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt' shoes having means for guiding a welt and an unlastedupper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, a presser foot, a work support, means provided with a feed point for engaging the upper, and mechanism for actuating said means to cause the feed point to raise the upper from the work support to provide surplus upper between the feed point and the needle and to feed such surplus upper with respect to the welt toward the needle while the latter is in the work to cause the upper to be sewed tothe welt in puckered condition.

12. A machine for use in the manufacture of pr-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with the welt beneath the upper and with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch and means under the conin the manufacture of forming and work needle, a presser foot, movable into and out of clamping relation to the work, and means comprising a lever pivotally mounted on the presser foot and provided with a feed point for engaging the inside of the upper, said lever being rocked by the clamping movement of the presser foot to advance the upper with relation to the welt to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.

13. A machine for use in the manufacture of feeding devices including a' pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with the welt beneath the upper and with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and workfeeding devices, a presser foot, and means comprising a lever [pivotally mounted intermediate its ends on the presser foot and provided with a feed point on one arm thereof for engaging the inside of the upper, a

fixed abutment for the other arm of the lever,-

means for maintaining the second arm in engagement with the abutment whereby downward movement of the presser foot rocks the lever to feed the upper with relation to the welt to cause the upper to be sewed to the welt in puckered condition;

14. A machine for use in the manufacture of prewelt shoes having. means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, 9. presser foot, a work support, means provided witha feed point for engaging theupper on the opposite side of the upper from the work support, and mechanism for actuating the feed point to cause the point to engage the upper and feed it with relation to the welt toward the needle while the latter is in the'work to cause the upper to be sewed to the welt in puckered condition.

15. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with the welt above the upper and with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a work support, a presser foot movable into and out of clamping position, and means comprising a lever pivotally mounted on the work support and provided with a feed pointfor engaging the inside of the upper, sai,d lever being rocked by clamping movement of the presser foot to advance the upper with relation to the welt to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition.

16. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a work support having an aperture therethrough, a presser foot, means on the presser foot and on the work support for guiding a welt and upper respectively to the sewing point with the presser-foot between the parts of the work and with their edges in substantial alignment, and supplementary upper feeding means comprising a lever plvotally mounted on the work support and provided with a feed point positioned directly beneath the presser foot and adapted to operate through the aperture in the work support, and means tending to rock the lever in the direction to force the feed point upwardly against the inside of the upper and to lift the same when the presser foot is raised, whereby downward movement of the welt to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition. 1

17. A machine for use in the manufacture of pre-welt shoes having, in combination, means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with the upper above the welt and with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a work support, a presser foot, means comprising a lever pivotally mounted on the presser foot. an arm pivoted on the lever and provided with a feed point for engaging the inside of the upper, said lever being rocked by clamping movement of the presser foot to advance the upper with relation to the welt to cause the upper to be secured to the welt in puckered condition, and means under the control or the operator for swinging the arm on the lever to move the feed point out oi operative position to permit the sewing operation to be carried out without puckering the upper.

18. A machine for use in the manufacture 0t pre-welt shoes having means for guiding a welt and an unlasted upper to the sewing point with their edges in substantial alignment, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle, a presser foot, awork support, means provided with a feed point for engaging the upper on the 3 same side 0! the upper as the work support, and mechanism for actuating the feed point to cause the point to engage the upper and feed it with relation to the welt toward the needle while the latter is in the work sewed to the welt in puckered condition.

. KARL ENG!!! to cause the upper to be u 

